March meeting: Sew-in Blocks of the Month

We had a well-attended meeting and lots of us brought our machines for the sew-in of two presented blocks.

First, SHOW & TELL

Jean got her quilt back from Leslie.  It's much like the one she donated recently.

Jean also made this one.

Hope was inspired by her painter's palette to create this pin cushion.

Sue put together the blocks we presented last year into this quilt.

Leslie got this appliqué project as a kit some time ago and recently finished it.

Ruth had signed up for a monthly delivery of goodies and she made these two donation quilts from some of that fabric.

BLOCKS FOR THIS MONTH

Charlene presented Churn Dash

You'll need two fabrics.

Cut: 

Fabric #1: 4 1/2" x 4 1/2" square for the center

    2 1/2' x 19" strip

    2 @  5" x 5"

Fabric #2:    2 1/2' x 19" strip

    2 @  5" x 5"

1. Sew the two long strips together on their long edge.  Cut it into 4 x 4 1/2" squares.

2. Choose one of your fabrics, and draw a diagonal line on the backs of both 5"x 5" squares.

3. Place the marked squares on top of the unmarked squares, right sides together, and stitch 1/4" away from the line and on both sides of the line.  Do this for both pairs of fabrics.

4. Cut on the diagonal lines.  Trim to 4 1/2" square.  This will give you 4 half-square triangles for the corners of the block.

5. Assemble as shown.

Examples that we made:

 

Sandra presented Twin Darts

You'll need two fabrics.

From EACH fabric cut:

    5 1/8" x 5 1/8" square 

    4 @  2 3/4" x 3 1/2" 

    2 @  2" x 3 1/2"

    2 @  4" x 4"

1. Using the 5 1/8” x 5 1/8” squares, draw a diagonal line on the back of one square.  Layer the squares right sides together and stitch a scant 1/4” away from one edge.  Stitch again on the opposite edge.

2. Cut on the drawn line.  Press open.

3. Matching centers, stitch the wide sides together.  Press and square to 6 1/2”.

4. Choose the smaller rectangles (2” x 3 1/2”) from ONE of your fabrics and sew the long sides to the bigger rectangles of the other fabric.  Make 2.

5. Repeat with the opposite configuration, your second fabric in the center and the first fabrics to each side.

6. Sew one pair of the trios to opposite sides of the square from step 3 as shown. 

   This is the wide center row of the block.

7. Using the 4” x 4” squares, draw a diagonal line on the back of one square.  Layer the squares right sides together and stitch a scant 1/4” away on both sides of the drawn line. 

8. Cut on the drawn line.  Press open.  These are the corner blocks and should measure 3 1/2" sq.  

9. Sew these corners to each end of the remaining trios from steps 4-5.

     Pay close attention to the orientation of the pieces.

You’ll have 2 of these.

10. Assemble the three rows as shown.  Trim to 12 1/2”.

The two setting options are surprisingly different.

Examples that we made:

APRIL

For next month, prepare something not too small for Leslie's binding class.  A table runner or bed runner would be ideal.

She passed out some kits for a table runner that were languishing in a closet.  Note that the center block is too small.  And the runner in the picture below has an extra outer border that isn't contained in the kit.  Prep your binding as shown below.

Prepare your binding:

Traditional Binding:

I cut my strips 2.25 inches by the width of the fabric. At 2.25 inches, I get a narrow front binding (1/4”) and a slightly wider back binding. I find it easier to sew to the backing if the edge of the binding is not directly on top of the seam line. You can cut the strips at 2 inches—and pulling very tightly (and sewing a thread or two under the quarter inch) get a binding that is a quarter inch on both sides. A lot of sites and tutorials have you cut a 2.5 inch strip. This works well if you want a wider binding on the front—3/8 inch maybe—or want a wider binding on the back with a quarter inch front.

When you add a binding to the front, if you sew a binding wider than 1⁄4 inch, be aware that it will cut of any points you might have along the outside of the quilt—unless you sew a quarter inch from the edge of the quilt and trim the batting and backing 1/8 or more of an inch wider.

I sew the strips together at an angle (to reduce bulk) and clip off the extra fabric. Then fold in half and iron the length. I generally make my full length strip at least 8 inches longer than the circumference of the quilt. Remember, you will lose a little length when joining the strips together.

For the second technique:

1. For this technique, you will need a main binding color and an accent color. 
2. Trim the excess batting back backing from your quilt. Then measure the perimeter and add 10′′ or so.

3. Cut as many strips of the main (outer) binding fabric as you need to total the perimeter of your quilt at 1 1/2′′ wide for a wider binding—1.25” for a narrower binding (finishes at about 3/8” on the front).

4. Cut the same number of flange (accent) strips at 1 3/4′′ for a wider binding—1.5” for the narrower binding. 5. Sew the strips of each fabric together end to end. I always use a mitered join to minimize bulk.

6. Sew the main color and the accent color together lengthwise using a 1/4′′ seam. You now have two strips equal to the perimeter of your quilt.

7. Press toward the main (narrower) fabric.

8. Then press lengthwise with wrong sides together and raw edges even. See how a narrow piping/flange appears when you meet the raw edges?

 

For the quilt-as-you-go method, Leslie recommends this site.

She adds: 

You can use strips of the same width—or varying widths. You can use strips that are cut straight—or that are wider at one end and narrower at the other.

You can sew your strips length‐wise or width‐wise on your project—depending on the look you want.

You could sew shorter strips—and add a border around the edges (making sure it doesn’t extend beyond the backing and batting) or just sew a border on over the strips if you want.